Gundam Australia Forum Sponsored By Hobby Link Japan - Go there NOW
February 20, 2020, 07:26:47 AM *
Welcome, Guest
Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Ordering something from HLJ? Access the site through our banner! :)

Follow Us On -
Fury's Schemer App
SAZABI VER KA!!!!
HLJ.com Ad
Pages: 1 ... 14 15 [16] 17 18 ... 20

Author Topic: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread  (Read 79841 times)

thegunny

  • Are we there yet?
  • Global Moderator
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5042
  • Om
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #225 on: May 27, 2013, 09:06:50 PM »

Deleted as it would appear that I am no netspert ::) I only worked with the stuff every day for 30 years so what would I know  :-\

Sorry I couldn't make the response longer but hey someone else has got that well in hand  :)
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 12:35:12 AM by thegunny »
Logged
Real men don't LOL!

KaiK

  • Lieutenant Commander
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 186
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #226 on: May 27, 2013, 11:57:53 PM »

I apologise if I failed to reiterate the point of the link, I will remember to expand further in the future and use this opportunity to correct any misconceptions.   

Summary at the bottom.

The point of the following link http://www.sparmax.com.tw/accessories_2.html#amp is so that a person can familiarise themselves with the various attachments available from Sparmax. Additional a person can identify what a 'bleed valve' is and refer back to the image of an MF8 moisture trap and note where the bleed valve is attached. Furthermore you can compare the physical design differences between a bleed valve and pressure regulator.

The following link has an image of an AC100 compressor: http://www.sparmax.com.tw/air_compressors.html

It should be noted that the AC100 compressor has a moisture trap with a bleed valve attached and no inline regulator. The specifications of the AC100 state the following:

‧Motor : 1/8 HP AC
‧Airflow : 12~16 lpm
‧Max. Pressure : 80psi
‧Weight : 3.4kgs / 7.5 lbs
‧Size : L26.5 x W14.5 x H17 cm
‧Equipped with Moisture trap / Pressure gauge
‧Pressure adjustable

The following points should be noted:

The AC100 has an airflow of 12-16 lpm. This is relatively low but is suitable for use without the need of an air tank. Due to the low flow rate I would not recommend attaching and air tank to the system unless you have enough patience to wait for the tank to fill up, additionally the compressor does not have a pressure cut off and will continue to function up to 80 psi. Unless the air tank is rated for more than 80 psi it is not safe to let the system work up to that pressure.
The last entry on the specifications is 'Pressure Adjustable'. Since there is no inline regulator the only way to adjust the output pressure is turn the bleed valve. While it's not a pressure regulator it can be used to regulate the output pressure.

Back to issues on hand, the images which have been post from other sources show an AC100 (I can only assume) with a different attachment on the moisture trap. The object looks like an adaptor rather than a bleed valve. If this is the case then I can only assume the wrong part has been attached to the moisture trap and you should seek clarification from the seller. 

The issue raised by thepuddingcup11 indicates that there may be problem with the pressure gauge (refer to http://www.sparmax.com.tw/accessories_2.html for images of pressure gauges).

i see, the psi meter goes to a hundred but i cant get it past 17? oh well.

The reading on pressure gauge of an AC100 compressor should not exceed 80 psi which is the max pressure of the compressor. If it does there may be a mechanical problem with the pressure gauge, worn or corroded springs for example. Unfortunately there is too little information to assess why the final output is only 17 psi, I can only speculate. 

Since there is no inline regulator I can only assume the bleed valve is the only control option. 17 psi is actually quite a good working pressure but if there is a problem with the gauge the output pressure might actually be different. A 17psi reading on the gauge with the hose and airbrush (triggers in the neutral position) attached tells me that the bleed valve (if there is one) is open all the way. The simple fix would be to screw in or turn the bleed valve to decrease the exhaust rate. 

I'd rather not go into how a bleed valve controls pressure because it would make the post even longer. If it didn't work I wouldn't be able to paint anything.

Summary:

http://www.sparmax.com.tw/accessories_2.html#amp This link will take you to the Sparmax Accessories page where you can see all the accessories for compressors and airbrushes.

The page will also show you images of 'bleed valves', pressure regulators, etc as well as show a fully assembled moisture trap with a bleed valve (MF8)

Sparmax AC100 Compressors can operate without an air tank.

A bleed valve can be use to regulate pressure by increasing or decreasing the exhaust flow rate. 

If there is no inline pressure regulator there should be a bleed valve.

I hope this helps out in some way, but unfortunately thepuddingcup11 I would need to see a picture of your compressor in order to assist further. 
 
Logged

xtoppable

  • Lieutenant Junior Grade
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 44
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #227 on: June 01, 2013, 10:05:35 AM »

how much paint do usually use for a HG kit, for instance MSA-0011  S-gundam? I don't know whether I'm using too much paint or just the right amount. I tried to air brushed a few pieces and realized I could use up a whole jar of tamiya white enamel (10ml) for all of the white section of the kit.
Thank you
Logged

KaiK

  • Lieutenant Commander
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 186
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #228 on: June 02, 2013, 12:25:08 AM »

I've painted a HG Unicorn using less than one pot of Mr Color White (also 10ml). Mixture was 1:3 paint:thinner.

White is one of those colours which often require a few coats to get a nice solid finish. It's been a while since I've used Tamiya enamel paint in an airbrush but I do remember using a 1:3 mixture.

If you have a double action airbrush you can save quite a bit of paint by playing around with paint flow and pressure.   
Logged

xtoppable

  • Lieutenant Junior Grade
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 44
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #229 on: June 02, 2013, 04:36:00 AM »

Isn't that really thin? I did with 1:1 ratio and found some paint dripping.
Logged

KaiK

  • Lieutenant Commander
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 186
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #230 on: June 02, 2013, 09:52:38 PM »

1:3 paint:thinner is a thin mix but it is a mixture that I'm comfortable to work with at 15-25 psi. I overcome the issue of paint dripping by controlling the paint flow.

Less paint flow, less drip, faster dry time per coat.

The trade off is painting can take more time as it needs more coats, however due to the thin mixture I'm not too worried about a thick layer of paint building up.

1:1 is a pretty simple mixture to work with. You can spray at a higher working pressure (25-30+ psi) for fine lines or paint a large surface area really fast. The downside to a 1:1 mixture is it gives you less margin of error when it comes to controlling the thickness of the paint layer and you can consume paint really fast, which was your main concern.

By controlling the paint flow at certain working pressures can give you a similar consumption rate to a 1:3 mixture. Keep practising with your airbrush and you will find an efficient configuration, in the past I practised using plastic spoons, cheap test bed and if the spoon melted it served as an indicator of too much thinner in the mix. 
Logged

Ghostintheshell

  • Lieutenant Commander
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 103
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #231 on: June 02, 2013, 11:33:49 PM »

Okay, Im about to out myself as the rookie noob i am, but heres some questions:

I need to spray some Tamiya acrylic/lacquer bare metal as a base coat, for chipping.

Can I:

*Thin it using, automotive acryl/lacq thinner?
*Spray it over vallejo primer?
*Then spray, water based acrylic over it and vallejo brand matt finish?

Also, I've got some aqueous gunze acrylic, am i able to thin it with airbrush medium and distilled water???

Thanks in advance guys.
Logged
Blog - Under construction: http://jdmjunkyard.wordpress.com/

KaiK

  • Lieutenant Commander
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 186
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #232 on: June 03, 2013, 12:26:22 AM »

It will be difficult to say what will happen when mixing automotive thinners with hobby paints, although I'm sure the automotive thinners will keep your airbrush nice and clean if used as a cleaner.

I would recommend using same brand paint and thinner combinations to avoid any potential problems.

So disregarding the use of automotive thinners, you will be able to spray Tamiya acrylics and lacquer bare metal (I'm not 100% sure exactly which product you refer to) over Vallejo primer (very tough primer, lacquer paints should be fine on it) and on top of that you will be able to spray your water based acrylics and Vallejo matt finish.

As for your last query, you can thin Gunze acrylics with a water based medium and distilled water however if you're using the medium often you won't need additional water in the mixture. Always test before spraying your project.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2013, 12:28:15 AM by KaiK »
Logged

xtoppable

  • Lieutenant Junior Grade
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 44
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #233 on: June 03, 2013, 06:36:51 AM »


So disregarding the use of automotive thinners, you will be able to spray Tamiya acrylics and lacquer bare metal (I'm not 100% sure exactly which product you refer to) over Vallejo primer (very tough primer, lacquer paints should be fine on it) and on top of that you will be able to spray your water based acrylics and Vallejo matt finish.
Hey KaiK, how and where can I find this Vallejo primer? Is it expensive?
thanks
« Last Edit: June 03, 2013, 06:39:29 AM by xtoppable »
Logged

Ghostintheshell

  • Lieutenant Commander
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 103
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #234 on: June 03, 2013, 10:59:05 AM »

It will be difficult to say what will happen when mixing automotive thinners with hobby paints, although I'm sure the automotive thinners will keep your airbrush nice and clean if used as a cleaner.

I would recommend using same brand paint and thinner combinations to avoid any potential problems.

So disregarding the use of automotive thinners, you will be able to spray Tamiya acrylics and lacquer bare metal (I'm not 100% sure exactly which product you refer to) over Vallejo primer (very tough primer, lacquer paints should be fine on it) and on top of that you will be able to spray your water based acrylics and Vallejo matt finish.

As for your last query, you can thin Gunze acrylics with a water based medium and distilled water however if you're using the medium often you won't need additional water in the mixture. Always test before spraying your project.
Thanks Kaik, I might just stick to the tamiya thinner although a guy in the LHS yesterday mentioned that you can thin tamiya acrylic lacquer with metho, although im not keen to waste a brand new pot to find out.
Logged
Blog - Under construction: http://jdmjunkyard.wordpress.com/

KaiK

  • Lieutenant Commander
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 186
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #235 on: June 03, 2013, 05:11:30 PM »

Lots of hobby shops around Australia will carry the Vallejo brand, if they don't have the primer on hand they should be able to get it for you.

Alternatively you can find them on online shops such as BNA Models, Lucky Models and HLJ.

Have a read through this thread about priming:

http://gundamaustralia.com/forum/index.php?topic=176.0

Some forum members use an alternate primer for their hobby.
Logged

Ghostintheshell

  • Lieutenant Commander
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 103
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #236 on: June 03, 2013, 07:32:44 PM »

Vallejo primer is lovely, i rate it highly. Especially for acrylic.
Logged
Blog - Under construction: http://jdmjunkyard.wordpress.com/

xtoppable

  • Lieutenant Junior Grade
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 44
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #237 on: June 16, 2013, 06:24:41 PM »

thanks KaiK

Also, I have come across another brand called Gaia. Their thinners are extremely cheap ($35 for 1L),  and they have a very wide range of paints. Has anyone here used them before? Please tell me what you know.
Thanks
Logged

Ethan

  • Commander
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 445
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #238 on: June 16, 2013, 08:31:38 PM »

Yes, i've used their paints. They're kinda like Mr. Color but I find that it dries a tad bit harder. Thinner wise, I've only tried their Metallic thinner (t-09) for their metallic range. I know I've mentioned this a million times already, but you should really give their 'Super bright ...' metallics a go. Also, for thinning their non-metallic paints, you can just use general purpose lacquer thinner instead which is about $40-45 for 4L (last time I bought mine).
« Last Edit: June 16, 2013, 08:33:42 PM by Ethan »
Logged

xtoppable

  • Lieutenant Junior Grade
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 44
    • View Profile
Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« Reply #239 on: June 18, 2013, 09:42:27 AM »

so you are using their general purpose lacquer thinner to thin their acrylic as well as enamel paints?
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 14 15 [16] 17 18 ... 20
 



japantoys.com.au banner ad

HLJ.com Ad

Advertise on GAF