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Messages - kamil001

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5
16
Mobile Suit Hangar / Re: MG Banshee Titanium Version X LED
« on: December 03, 2015, 01:23:34 PM »
Armed armor VN done.

Also finished wiring the waist section. this completes the lower half of the kit.

Also added another LED on the top part of the back pack.

17
Tomorrow's MS Developers / Re: Rescaling and printing gundam images
« on: November 28, 2015, 11:47:21 AM »
I'm thinking I'd print multiple copies with different sizes then checking with the actual kit to see it it aligns. That gets me the actual dimensions in printed form. From there I just rescale the image 44% bigger to get the 1/100 scale.

But I'm trying if there's another way to get the base dimensions without printing too much copies. Seems like a waste of ink, paper, time, and effort.

18
Tomorrow's MS Developers / Rescaling and printing gundam images
« on: November 27, 2015, 09:19:37 PM »
Not sure if this is the right place to put this.

Can somebody help me with how to re-scale an image(i.e. Kshatriya here) so that it actually prints the same size as in 1/144 or any other scales.

19
Mobile Suit Hangar / Re: MG Banshee Titanium Version X LED
« on: November 25, 2015, 01:32:37 PM »
Small update. Done working with the back pack. But I'm still considering adding 1 more led in the top part.

20
Friendly Fire / MechTalyer blog
« on: November 21, 2015, 11:00:18 AM »
Hi guys,

Just want to share my blog. http://mechtalyer.blogspot.com

It's mainly where I put all my gunpla wips and projects.

21
Mobile Suit Hangar / Re: MG Banshee Titanium Version X LED
« on: November 21, 2015, 04:21:59 AM »
Did a test buil of the kit. So far so goid. Still a lot to do though.

22
Mobile Suit Hangar / Re: MG Banshee Titanium Version X LED
« on: November 17, 2015, 10:13:55 AM »
Small update this time working on the arms, Armed armor BS(Beam Smart) to be exact.

I was lucky not to break any critical parts here. The clear parts were as thin as the LEDs making it hard to wire them up.

Forgot to take pics of the inner working of the arms but it required some cutting to make space for the LEDs and still keep the transformation. I'll take pics when I work on the other arm.

Some wires will have to be exposed, like when the Armed Armor is folded. The wires from the AABS going into the arm is exposed. Maybe I'll just paint over them.

Also finished working on the shoulders.

Also I added some sockets in the feet so I could display the Banshee in a base and light it up without exposing any wires.

23
Mobile Suit Hangar / Re: MG Banshee Titanium Version X LED
« on: November 11, 2015, 11:47:40 PM »
small update. so far so good. nubs are less noticeable when lights are on.  :P

25
Conversion Kits / FPM RG Exia Repair 3 Conversion Set 1/144
« on: November 09, 2015, 04:32:44 PM »
Year released: Oct 2015
Release number: 001
Approx cost: USD$20
Origin: Mobile Suit Gundam 00V: Battlefield Record.

26
Mobile Suit Hangar / MG Banshee Titanium Version X LED
« on: November 09, 2015, 04:19:40 PM »
Since Iíve finished building the inner frame, Iíve decided to start working on the LED wiring. I started working on the feet first and went up from there. I wasnít planning on putting on the armor parts  but I needed to see if the LEDs will illuminate the right areas with the armor on.

 

 The feet area were really simple and only required some cutting and trimming on the frame part and the psychoframe. My priority in modding would be to focus on the frame as much as possible and then have changes on the psychoframe as minimal as possible. Iím trying to not do any changes on the armor parts since I donít want to risk breaking any of the armor parts since the titanium coating will be really hard to duplicate.

 

 Unfortunately Bandai isnít perfect.  I noticed some spots in some of the armor pieces. I know there are not my fault since I already saw these even before cutting them off the runners. Good thing this is not noticeable after assembling the other parts. And theyíre less noticeable than the nubs.

 

 Iím pretty satisfied with the result here. Iím trying to integrate the wiring into the frame as much as possible just like with the pg version.

 Working up the legs was quite a challenge. The other reason why Iím trying to integrate the wirings into the frame is that I wanted to retain the transformation gimmick. That means I had to get the wiring around the moving parts and make sure the wires donít obstruct them.

 The lower legs had a lot of moving parts for its transformation gimmick. Initially I could have used the open area in the lower leg for the wiring but since that would affect the transformation mechanism, I had to find another way. 

 Good thing the frame had a lot of recessed areas that I can use to pass the wire around. Since I can't use the area in the middle of the lower leg frame, I decided to have most of the wirings around this area meet at the ankle instead.

 Also as much as possible, I was trying to avoid doing the wirings to the moving parts since that could make the part or the wirings weaker. But I had to made an exception for the ankle area. There was just no other way to place the LEDs and illuminate the parts properly. I had to use 3 LEDs to illuminate the ankle part.

 To properly see the results of the mods I had to assemble the leg with the armor parts. For now I didnít bother dealing with the nub marks. maybe Iíll deal with them after building the whole kit since some of the nubs are hidden by the other parts.

 

 

 So far so good with the lower leg. The light in the knee is a little overexposed making the area too bright. A small issue I got was the knee armors can't fully close when in unicorn mode because of the LED. It has a bit of a gap around 2-3mm. But that's ok and isn't much of a big deal.

 The upper leg area required a bit more cutting and drilling. There was just not enough are in there to fit the LED so I had to cut a square hole to fit the LED. Again I had to be very careful around here so I can still retain the transformation.

 Heres another view of the leg wiring passing through the joints. Thereís sufficient space inside the knee joints for the wires to pass through. I just left a bit of slack in the wire for when the joints bend. I cant find a way to properly connect the upper and lower leg connections inside the legs so I just let them exit the legs and Iíll just connect them outside since that area is covered by the waist anyway.
 
 To help improve the light reflection inside the leg, I removed the paint from the insides of some of the armor parts. I used a Qtip dipped to some Tamiya cement to remove the paint. I was expecting to strip the chrome also but the cement didnít have a reaction to the chrome. I had to be really careful when I did this since if I made a mistake I could ruin the finish on the outer parts and I don't know how to repair that.

 

Assembling the leg together with the led really looked good. Maybe itís just me but with all the different angles of the parts, the nubs kind of blends with the kit unless you really try to look for them. Adding the lights also gives you something to look at and kind of takes your attention away from the nubs too. :P

 Also, i would just like to note the build quality of this kit. I initially thought that the plating and the paint made the parts thicker. And I noticed that even the underside of the parts were plated and painted. Normally, painting kits makes the parts thicker, thatís why we try to avoid painting the underside and especially the pegs and holes, among other reasons. But I didnít get any fitting issue with this kit. Though the pegs and the holes are also plated and painted, I never had any issue placing the parts. Snapping the parts didnít even feel stuck or hard at all.

Now that one leg is done successfully, Iíll just have to carefully repeat the same steps to the other leg.

27
Engineering Corps / Re: Titanium finish + LED
« on: November 02, 2015, 09:40:49 AM »
Just want to share this here. Since regular glues tend to ruin the finish. I did a quick test of the shavings technique using white glue or craft glue. I think this is a waterbased glue.
I'd say that this might work. I just noticed that the glue takes longer to dry. And that I had to press the shavings down to flatten it out. Also there may be some residue when the glue dries but careful wiping with a wet/ damp cloth/ cotton bud will remove it.

28
Engineering Corps / Re: Titanium finish + LED
« on: October 28, 2015, 02:52:03 PM »
I read somewhere about how to deal with nubs in titanium finish kit by scraping the finish from the runners and gluing it over the nubs.
Here are some tests using some scrap runners. I can say it's pretty doable. I just have to be very precise when placing the scrape and to use minimal glue.
Apparently CA glue and tamiya thin cement dissolves the color plating but not the chrome.
Now I just have to find a suitable glue.

29
Engineering Corps / Re: Kamil's LED mods
« on: October 24, 2015, 04:42:24 PM »
Here's some proof of concepts when I was working on the hg unicorn. Wasn't decided how to display the kit so I tried to put LEDs on both.

30
Engineering Corps / Re: Kamil's LED mods
« on: October 24, 2015, 04:45:33 AM »
Here's some proof of concepts when I was working on the hg unicorn. Wasn't decided how to display the kit so I tried to put LEDs on both.

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