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Messages - dj898

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 7
Engineering Corps / Re: Citadel Inks
« on: January 24, 2013, 03:29:19 PM »
my understanding is it's basically thinned paint that you can use for washing straight out of tub

Engineering Corps / Re: Citadel Inks
« on: January 24, 2013, 03:24:41 PM »
well you could try Artist Ink as well as oil paint thinned...
hence I don't see why Citadel wash wouldn't work - just careful with the base coat I guess

FWIW here are couple of shots when I tested the Oil paint washing.

Link 1
Link 2

Engineering Corps / Re: Airbrush cleaning stations
« on: January 22, 2013, 02:28:03 PM »
from memory I paid something like $15 for the Sparmax cleaning pod which suspiciously looked like Iwata cleaning pod but much much cheaper???
can't remember whether I bought it from the old HobbyCo store or some other shop in the city (there used to be a few although nowadays they are all gone...)

Engineering Corps / Re: Finish coat problem
« on: January 10, 2013, 03:28:18 PM »
Tamiya acrylics do no agree with testors top coats, use something else, I had that happen to one of my kits that I used testors on as well, after going back to mr top coat everything was peachy

Happened to me as well.
MG GM ver 1.5 conversion kit I did had the exact problem with the same combo.
Lesson learned... :(

Engineering Corps / Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« on: November 16, 2012, 09:05:11 AM »
one more thing.
with gravity feed you can mix the paint you are spraying on the go.
For example I start with the base colour and add the colour to alter the shade or what not and do the same at each stage which means I don't have to stop clean/change/etc.
Call me lazy ^ ^

Engineering Corps / Re: Gunpla Terminology
« on: November 15, 2012, 10:25:22 AM »

Although Bandai do issue limited licences for garage kits sold at shows such as Wonderfest.

the licence for Wonderfest is just single day only.
so yes you can sell on that day but after that no you cannot.

Engineering Corps / Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« on: November 15, 2012, 10:22:33 AM »

Also i was told i do need a water capture device on it >_< not sure why. im assuming moisture gets into the paint somehow ?.

...coz otherwise you will see the paint spluttered all over your piece ruining what ever you were doing. Fixing would be wash away the painting and start all over again with that piece...

Engineering Corps / Re: B-Club 1/75 soft vinyl kits
« on: November 14, 2012, 11:33:14 AM »
you must be talking about the old 0080 series soft vinyl kits?
I have few and went half way through with the GM Command(?) kit.

From memory it was just like any other soft vinyl kits.
You need to soften and trim the extra and once cleaned/washed you can treat them like any other kit, well almost.
I found once the primer is one you can paint pretty much same way using Acrylics.

For the balance you can put some Papier Mache at the bottom as the thing is basically hallow shell - think resin may work better but being cheap I used what I had. :p

Are they worth?
Well if you are doing the diorama in 1/78 scale it could come in handy. You can use S scale construction sets plus 1/78 scale military kits which saves hassle of scratch building them.

Mobile Suit Simulator / Gunda: 0079 The War for Earth
« on: November 02, 2012, 11:52:55 AM »
While cleaning up I found this one.
I know Playstation got the NTSC-J release but haven't seen many Mac version and it's in English voice unlike Japanese voice with English subtitle in NTSC-J release. :P

And if you are wondering why this game is considered legendary see the YouTube - skip till you see Char in all his glory(?)

if I were you I'd lift that zaku in the air and reduce the space required.
by lifting the zaku in the air you can compress the space needed between two. :)
and about the lifting try to make Gundam in the middle of cutting zaku's waist and you can hide the supporting brass rod and etc. through the beam saber and related effect parts.

I did something similar with my Gundam Vs Gouf diorama and have the Gouf's both arms complete with the heat sword up in the air. It's quite simply trick but does wonder with spectators... :)

p.s. I'd do this in 1/144 scale as at 1/100 scale any mistake or imperfection will be more obvious...  and if necessary make the background to force the viewing angle to the certain point and hide those bits... heh

Engineering Corps / Re: Painting Muscular Skin Tones
« on: October 02, 2012, 03:13:25 PM »
maybe somewhat similar to what I did with Eva-00 few years back.
Basically I mix the colour on the airbush bowl and after each spray added few more drops to adjust the tone as I went. I think similar approach would work as well - after the basic pass add few drops to darken the tone and do the shallow shaded area and then do it again but with more darken tone and those more dark shaded areas, and etc.

One could pre-arrange the colours/tones but for me mixing as I go woks better, not to mention quicker.
of coz ymmv

Although it was school holiday our kids swimming squad still trains do we spent morning for training and then our little one's training which finishes around 3pm.
Thought of dropping by myself to pick up but ran out of time and to drop my family at home and came to the venue I'd be lucky before 6-6:30pm which was too late.
Like I said wish I knew I could pick up after the show was closed.
Or at least the ticket booth guy told me the option.
In any case I'm not into the competition tbh and besides my wife told me I'm too old for that anyway :x
And maybe she's right. I couldn't get those cosplay but I'm sure it's as exciting to them as gunpla is to us, modellers... ^^

You could have waited until 5pm when the show closed and got in the rear exit for free to collect your kit (the Harbourside end of the center). Some entrants just did that when they came to collect.

Wish I knew. The letter from Hobby Co "kindly" stressed that to collect the kits one had to buy the ticket.
Even the ticker sellers when I explained said I still needed to buy the tickets. :(

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