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Messages - KaiK

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13
1
Engineering Corps / Re: Correct respirator filter type?
« on: December 31, 2014, 02:47:06 AM »
A-AUS/P2 uses the same colour code (white & brown) as A2P2, I would assume they are similar if not the same.

An A-AUS (brown) is only designed to filter gases and vapours and generally doesn't last too long in high particle (solid/liquid) environments without a pre-filter.

Both filters are fine for the hobby.



2
Engineering Corps / Re: What sort of glass do you look through?
« on: November 03, 2014, 03:50:21 AM »
In the past I've used a Logitech web cam to assist with extremely fine work.

It is surprisingly quite effective once you get the setup right and if the camera doesn't constantly adjust its focus (fixed through settings).

3
Engineering Corps / Re: How much paint do you use?
« on: October 28, 2014, 04:01:19 PM »
I wouldn't imaging there is a clear cut answer to this since there are too many factors to consider.

For my own personal projects I usually work out how much paint I might need based on how much primer I used. I primarily airbrush the primer so it gives me a good idea of how much paint I might need. 

Example: 1/48 RX-78-2

Primer used ~20ml un-thinned Mr Surfacer 1200, therefore total paint required would be a multiple of 20ml (accounting for multiple coats etc.)   

Once you know or even before you know how much primer you used do a colour percentage break down of the project.

White Armour: ~20%
Light Grey Armour: ~10%
Dark Grey Armour: ~5%
Main Blue Armour: ~15%
Light Blue Armour:~<5%
Red Armour/Details: ~<15%
Yellow Armour/Details: ~<5%
Steel Amour/Details: ~25%

Once you know the primer coverage and the colour breakdown you can work out a basic colour coverage amount.

This is a theoretical amount of paint required to spray one coat of each colour. Amounts are for un-thinned paints.

White Armour: ~20% - 4ml
Light Grey Armour: ~10% - 2ml
Dark Grey Armour: ~5% - 1ml
Main Blue Armour: ~15% - 3ml
Light Blue Armour:~<5% - 1ml
Red Armour/Details: ~<15% - 3ml
Yellow Armour/Details: ~<5% - 1ml
Steel Amour/Details: ~25% - 5ml

Working off the paint coverage amount you will then need to add adjustments based on how you're going to paint the project (no. of coats, shading, etc). For general consistency any adjustment should be a multiple of the paint coverage amount.

Again amounts are for un-thinned paints.

White Armour: ~20% - 4ml - 2 coats> 2 shade - x4: 16ml
Light Grey Armour: ~10% - 2ml - 2 coats> 2 shade - x4: 8ml
Dark Grey Armour: ~5% - 1ml - 2 coats> 2 shade - x4: 4ml
Main Blue Armour: ~15% - 3ml - 2 coats> 2 shade - x4: 12ml
Light Blue Armour:~<5% - 1ml - 2 coats> 2 shade - x4: 4ml
Red Armour/Details: ~<15% - 3ml - 2 coats> 2 shade - x4: 12ml
Yellow Armour/Details: ~<5% - 1ml - 2 coats> 2 shade - x4: 8ml
Steel Amour/Details: ~25% - 5ml - 2 coats> 1 shade - x3: 15ml

From the adjusted amount you can now work out how much paint you will need to mix and the amount of pots you will need to buy.

All paints are Mr Colour 10ml solvent based acrylics.

White Armour: 16ml - mixture (100% 16ml white, touch of Navy blue)
Light Grey Armour: 8ml - single (100% 8ml light grey)
Dark Grey Armour: 4ml - single (100% 4ml dark grey)
Main Blue Armour: 12ml - mixture (60% 7.2ml cobalt blue, 40% 4.8ml bright blue)
Light Blue Armour: 4ml - single (100% 4ml bright blue)
Red Armour/Details: 12ml - single (100% 12ml red madder)
Yellow Armour/Details: 8ml - mixture (60% 4.8ml yellow, 30% 2.4ml white, 10% 0.8ml orange)
Steel Amour/Details: 15ml - single (100% 15ml steel)

Pots required:

White: 18.4ml = 2 pots
Navy blue: x ml = 1 pot
Light grey: 8ml = 1 pot
Dark grey: 4ml = 1 pot
Cobalt blue: 7.2ml = 1 pot
Bright blue: 8.8ml = 1 pot
Red madder: 12ml = 2 pots
Yellow: 4.8ml = 1 pot
Orange: 0.8ml = 1 pot
Steel: 15ml = 2 pots

Additional colours required:

Shading: 1 black, 1 white
Clear gloss: 2 pots
Flat clear: 2 pots

Total pots = 19

Well that's my approach to the problem. 

4
Simple answer is yes, provided that the coating is smooth and cured.

If the surface is a bit rough then use fine grit sand paper to smooth it down. Clean the surface with a damp cloth before spraying the gloss.

5
Engineering Corps / Re: MR Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black
« on: October 12, 2014, 05:35:23 AM »
Hi Wavehawk,

I haven't used the can but I do use the Grey pot version.

Surfacer 1500 Gray can be used to create an extremely smooth surface in preparation for high gloss painting. This pretty much reduces the need for additional surface prep such has sanding or polishing. The finish is semi-gloss to flat and doesn't really work that well as a base for high shine metallic paints, however once you spray a layer of gloss black (clear gloss for 1500 Black) and you can get an excellent base.

I would recommend spraying Surfacer 1500 over primer for best results and stronger paint adhesion. You can spray it right over plastic but keep in mind that it is thin so any sanding or glue marks will show through, also the sprayed layer isn't as strong as thicker surfacers so sanding sprayed sections might strip the layer.   

6
Engineering Corps / Re: Question about applying top coat
« on: October 09, 2014, 08:55:34 PM »
Hi Deidei,

Increasing the drying/curing time between layers will reduce the risk of any adverse reactions when spraying additional layers.

High thinner paint mixtures can affect layers, coupled with high air pressure and you may encounter layers being stripped.

To decrease drying/curing time, try using a hobby grade lacquer thinner rather than an acrylic thinner with your water soluble acrylic paints. I've been doing this for many projects and have yet to encounter any major issues. In addition to a significant reduction in drying/curing time, paint will atomize much finer when airbrushing. This will let you use lower pressures and finer nozzles with greater ease, also your paint layers will become much thinner. Downside to this mixture is you may need lots of coats to form a high gloss finishes.

Another way of decreasing drying time is using a hairdryer at a low setting. Once cool the paint should become touch dry and you will be able to spray addition layers but keep in mind the paint still needs time to cure. 
 

7
Engineering Corps / Re: how to spray glow in the dark powder?
« on: August 15, 2014, 08:09:10 PM »
Hi ep82,

Mix the glow powder with un-thinned solvent based clear gloss (I use Mr Color GX100 Super Clear III). Mixture ratios will vary, too much powder will make a dough too little and it won't glow.

Unfortunately without instructions you will need to experiment. If it's the Mars labeled glow powder from HK then the ratio will be 3 parts powder to 7 parts clear.

Once you get your mixture fine tuned you will be able to thin it down like you would with other colours.

Use a 0.5mm nozzle on your airbrush, 0.3 does work but not for long.

8
Engineering Corps / Re: Sanding down nubs
« on: February 16, 2014, 11:34:54 PM »
Hi Ted,

You can use finer (>1500) sand paper to reduce the visibility of scratches but keep in mind the more you sand the more you lose off the surface.

You will still be able to differentiate between a sanded and un-sanded area since you're altering the smoothness and finish of the surface. This may or may not be an issue but if it is there are ways of hiding the marks without repainting the surface.

1. Use polishing compound (toothpaste works too) on the sanded areas: This has the potential to blend and even out the finish of the surface. 
2. Clear coat the model: although this could be considered painting you would be surprises at what you can hide using clear paints.

"If thereís still any uneven surface in the part, you could sand it using sanding paper or sanding sponge, DO THIS ONLY IF YOU PAINT YOUR MODEL KIT. If you donít paint your model kit, donít do this because sanding paper would leave a mark to your part."

True in some circumstances but not all.

9
Hi JTG,

Mr Mark Setter should not react with the titanium finish but may leave surface stains which can be cleaned up with water. Mr Mark Setter can be used as a softener but requires multiple applications to achieve the same results of a single application of Mr Mark Softer.

Mr Mark Softer will react if the area is saturated with the solution. You can still use this solution but increase the drying time between application to reduce the risk of a reaction and immediately dilute any excess solution on the surface with water once the decal has been treated, this concern should also be applied to Mr Mark Setter.

I've never tried using Microsol or Microset on a titanium finish but I've seen applications on similar finishes without reaction. 

If you want to protect the titanium finish try using Alclad Aqua Gloss.
http://www.bnamodelworld.com/alclad/alc-600

Aqua Gloss is airbrush ready, water based and extremely tough once dry and cured. It has similar attributes to Future.

10
Some of the Mr Metal Colors are buff-able paints. Use a soft cloth to polish the surface. Don't use compound.

If sections become dull after buffing you can respray the area and rebuff.

Seal with acrylic gloss or leave bare since the paint is extremely tough (once cured) and has a natural metal finish. 

11
Engineering Corps / Re: NEED HELP priming inner-frame
« on: September 22, 2013, 09:44:47 PM »
Can you prime an inner frame? Yes you can.... but....

In places where you can attach and detach items (armour, weapons etc) there usually is a friction tab moulded in. If you have a look a some sockets you may see a small tab sticking out on one side (sometimes both). Removing these tabs will allow you to fully prime and paint the section without parts becoming stiff or stuck.

I don't have a camera good enough to take a picture of this but if you look closer at your kit you should spot a few.

Removing these tabs will make an unpainted/primed piece have a loose fit, however once painted the section will have good fit without damaging the paintwork.

If the parts become too stiff you will need to correct the socket beyond simply removing the tabs, this is an issue I've rarely encountered.

If the parts become too loose you will need to add to the sockets to increase friction, again this is an issue I've rarely encountered unless I've over corrected.

Should you want to continue priming this is something I recommend you do but keep in mind over corrected parts can be a royal pain to fix.

 


12
Engineering Corps / Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« on: June 03, 2013, 05:11:30 PM »
Lots of hobby shops around Australia will carry the Vallejo brand, if they don't have the primer on hand they should be able to get it for you.

Alternatively you can find them on online shops such as BNA Models, Lucky Models and HLJ.

Have a read through this thread about priming:

http://gundamaustralia.com/forum/index.php?topic=176.0

Some forum members use an alternate primer for their hobby.

13
Engineering Corps / Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« on: June 03, 2013, 12:26:22 AM »
It will be difficult to say what will happen when mixing automotive thinners with hobby paints, although I'm sure the automotive thinners will keep your airbrush nice and clean if used as a cleaner.

I would recommend using same brand paint and thinner combinations to avoid any potential problems.

So disregarding the use of automotive thinners, you will be able to spray Tamiya acrylics and lacquer bare metal (I'm not 100% sure exactly which product you refer to) over Vallejo primer (very tough primer, lacquer paints should be fine on it) and on top of that you will be able to spray your water based acrylics and Vallejo matt finish.

As for your last query, you can thin Gunze acrylics with a water based medium and distilled water however if you're using the medium often you won't need additional water in the mixture. Always test before spraying your project.

14
Engineering Corps / Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« on: June 02, 2013, 09:52:38 PM »
1:3 paint:thinner is a thin mix but it is a mixture that I'm comfortable to work with at 15-25 psi. I overcome the issue of paint dripping by controlling the paint flow.

Less paint flow, less drip, faster dry time per coat.

The trade off is painting can take more time as it needs more coats, however due to the thin mixture I'm not too worried about a thick layer of paint building up.

1:1 is a pretty simple mixture to work with. You can spray at a higher working pressure (25-30+ psi) for fine lines or paint a large surface area really fast. The downside to a 1:1 mixture is it gives you less margin of error when it comes to controlling the thickness of the paint layer and you can consume paint really fast, which was your main concern.

By controlling the paint flow at certain working pressures can give you a similar consumption rate to a 1:3 mixture. Keep practising with your airbrush and you will find an efficient configuration, in the past I practised using plastic spoons, cheap test bed and if the spoon melted it served as an indicator of too much thinner in the mix. 

15
Engineering Corps / Re: Air Brush and Compressor Discussion Thread
« on: June 02, 2013, 12:25:08 AM »
I've painted a HG Unicorn using less than one pot of Mr Color White (also 10ml). Mixture was 1:3 paint:thinner.

White is one of those colours which often require a few coats to get a nice solid finish. It's been a while since I've used Tamiya enamel paint in an airbrush but I do remember using a 1:3 mixture.

If you have a double action airbrush you can save quite a bit of paint by playing around with paint flow and pressure.   

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