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Topics - kamil001

Pages: [1]
1
Tomorrow's MS Developers / Tekkadan mobile worker orthographic drawing
« on: March 02, 2017, 06:43:37 AM »
Goo day. can anyone help me find or if anyone already made a tekkadan mobile worker orthographic drawing. I'm planning to scratch build one the orthographic views would be the best source thanks.

https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=tekkadan+mobile+worker&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiw0aXllbbSAhUCVZQKHRu1B0sQ_AUICCgB&biw=1334&bih=491#imgrc=HIJcqUdXkIKW_M:

2
Engineering Corps / prototype/ test markings
« on: December 20, 2016, 07:39:51 AM »
Hi.

I'm currently planning on a prototype/ testing version of an MS so I'm currently researching the coloring and markings that you normally put in them. Unfortunately I haven't had any luck with them. So far I got images of some crash test cars so that's where I'm starting.

Do those markings; the striped yellow and black lines and the circle with yellow and black "slices" have any proper names?

Aside from those maybe you guys have any other ideas or sources regarding these kinds of markings.

3
I've been looking at the tamiya weathering master sets for quite some time but I need help deciding which sets I am going to get. I'm planning on weathering my kits as though they have been exposed to space environment.

I just need suggestions on what colors to get and why you think that would fit into the space theme.

For starters, I wont be needing the ones from set A since they're Sand, Light Sand, Mud.
Set B has soot which I think is good for the thrusters.
set C also looks promising since it has Soot and Rust.
Set F also looks good since it has Titan, Light Gun Metal and Copper.

4
Mobile Suit Hangar / RG amazing red warrior
« on: March 08, 2016, 02:19:35 AM »
Just want to share my latest project. I haven't seen anyone do this yet so might as well try it myself.

I'm just converting the rg rx78 into the amazing red warrior. Without modding the rg kit as much as possible.

I'm done working on the arms shoulders and backpack. Currently working on the head, chest, knees and feet. I'm using the original ARW feet since I dont want to destroy the rg feet. I'm still looking at ways how to put a polycap inside the feet since gluing the polycap to the plastic part is as good as imposible.

5
Engineering Corps / Vintage 1/1200 Whitebase
« on: January 15, 2016, 11:34:51 PM »
Found one of these in my stash. Vintage 1/1200 Whitebase. Under the display base it has some prints. Can anybody translate the japanese text? Also interesting to note is the year(1980) and the different Bandai Logo. Does this mean that it's an authentic vintage model?

6
Tomorrow's MS Developers / Rescaling and printing gundam images
« on: November 27, 2015, 09:19:37 PM »
Not sure if this is the right place to put this.

Can somebody help me with how to re-scale an image(i.e. Kshatriya here) so that it actually prints the same size as in 1/144 or any other scales.

7
Friendly Fire / MechTalyer blog
« on: November 21, 2015, 11:00:18 AM »
Hi guys,

Just want to share my blog. http://mechtalyer.blogspot.com

It's mainly where I put all my gunpla wips and projects.

8
Conversion Kits / FPM RG Exia Repair 3 Conversion Set 1/144
« on: November 09, 2015, 04:32:44 PM »
Year released: Oct 2015
Release number: 001
Approx cost: USD$20
Origin: Mobile Suit Gundam 00V: Battlefield Record.

9
Mobile Suit Hangar / MG Banshee Titanium Version X LED
« on: November 09, 2015, 04:19:40 PM »
Since Iíve finished building the inner frame, Iíve decided to start working on the LED wiring. I started working on the feet first and went up from there. I wasnít planning on putting on the armor parts  but I needed to see if the LEDs will illuminate the right areas with the armor on.

 

 The feet area were really simple and only required some cutting and trimming on the frame part and the psychoframe. My priority in modding would be to focus on the frame as much as possible and then have changes on the psychoframe as minimal as possible. Iím trying to not do any changes on the armor parts since I donít want to risk breaking any of the armor parts since the titanium coating will be really hard to duplicate.

 

 Unfortunately Bandai isnít perfect.  I noticed some spots in some of the armor pieces. I know there are not my fault since I already saw these even before cutting them off the runners. Good thing this is not noticeable after assembling the other parts. And theyíre less noticeable than the nubs.

 

 Iím pretty satisfied with the result here. Iím trying to integrate the wiring into the frame as much as possible just like with the pg version.

 Working up the legs was quite a challenge. The other reason why Iím trying to integrate the wirings into the frame is that I wanted to retain the transformation gimmick. That means I had to get the wiring around the moving parts and make sure the wires donít obstruct them.

 The lower legs had a lot of moving parts for its transformation gimmick. Initially I could have used the open area in the lower leg for the wiring but since that would affect the transformation mechanism, I had to find another way. 

 Good thing the frame had a lot of recessed areas that I can use to pass the wire around. Since I can't use the area in the middle of the lower leg frame, I decided to have most of the wirings around this area meet at the ankle instead.

 Also as much as possible, I was trying to avoid doing the wirings to the moving parts since that could make the part or the wirings weaker. But I had to made an exception for the ankle area. There was just no other way to place the LEDs and illuminate the parts properly. I had to use 3 LEDs to illuminate the ankle part.

 To properly see the results of the mods I had to assemble the leg with the armor parts. For now I didnít bother dealing with the nub marks. maybe Iíll deal with them after building the whole kit since some of the nubs are hidden by the other parts.

 

 

 So far so good with the lower leg. The light in the knee is a little overexposed making the area too bright. A small issue I got was the knee armors can't fully close when in unicorn mode because of the LED. It has a bit of a gap around 2-3mm. But that's ok and isn't much of a big deal.

 The upper leg area required a bit more cutting and drilling. There was just not enough are in there to fit the LED so I had to cut a square hole to fit the LED. Again I had to be very careful around here so I can still retain the transformation.

 Heres another view of the leg wiring passing through the joints. Thereís sufficient space inside the knee joints for the wires to pass through. I just left a bit of slack in the wire for when the joints bend. I cant find a way to properly connect the upper and lower leg connections inside the legs so I just let them exit the legs and Iíll just connect them outside since that area is covered by the waist anyway.
 
 To help improve the light reflection inside the leg, I removed the paint from the insides of some of the armor parts. I used a Qtip dipped to some Tamiya cement to remove the paint. I was expecting to strip the chrome also but the cement didnít have a reaction to the chrome. I had to be really careful when I did this since if I made a mistake I could ruin the finish on the outer parts and I don't know how to repair that.

 

Assembling the leg together with the led really looked good. Maybe itís just me but with all the different angles of the parts, the nubs kind of blends with the kit unless you really try to look for them. Adding the lights also gives you something to look at and kind of takes your attention away from the nubs too. :P

 Also, i would just like to note the build quality of this kit. I initially thought that the plating and the paint made the parts thicker. And I noticed that even the underside of the parts were plated and painted. Normally, painting kits makes the parts thicker, thatís why we try to avoid painting the underside and especially the pegs and holes, among other reasons. But I didnít get any fitting issue with this kit. Though the pegs and the holes are also plated and painted, I never had any issue placing the parts. Snapping the parts didnít even feel stuck or hard at all.

Now that one leg is done successfully, Iíll just have to carefully repeat the same steps to the other leg.

10
Engineering Corps / Titanium finish + LED
« on: October 23, 2015, 11:03:44 AM »
Just want to ask peoples opinion about LEDs and titanium finish kits(custom painted or otherwise).

Kindly share your thoughts and ideas.

11
Mobile Suit Hangar / HGUC Gouf WIP
« on: October 13, 2015, 08:20:32 PM »
For this latest project, I wanted to develop/ improve my basic model kit building techniques.

I got the hguc gouf from a sale in one of the local toy stores here.

Snap fitting the kit really gives you an idea of which parts to work on. Since this is relatively an old kit, it has nasty seam lines right in the middle of some parts that need to be dealt with.

As usual, since this is a kamil001 build I will be adding LEDs to the eyes. Good thing this kit has enough space inside to fit a small LED. I'm still deciding if I'll be putting LEDs on the other places. I'm also still undecided if I will be displaying it with the heat rod or the heat sword. But I already made necessary mods for both.

First thing I worked on the kit was the seam lines in the arms, shoulders, and legs of the kit. It was a tiring process of puttying, sanding, priming and checking until the seam lines are no more.

Unfortunately I ran out of primer before I could check the other parts. But all in all I was very satisfied with how things are turning out. Hopefully I get to buy the paints I need to continue this project.

12
Mobile Suit Hangar / Custom HG try burning gundam Ver. KAM
« on: August 26, 2015, 04:22:23 PM »
All current projects have been put on hold in preparation for the GBWC here in our country(PH) in October.

I will be using the HG try burning gundam and customize it into the "FG-001K Freezing Gundam Kamil". :P

I'm currently working on changing the proportion in some areas. I'm using the runner pieces for the crystal/ice effects.

After all the proportion changes, I still have to add LEDs and paint this. Or maybe if I still have some time add a few details around.

Hopefully I get to finish this in time.



13
Mobile Suit Hangar / HG unicorn awakened mode + LED
« on: July 13, 2015, 06:57:51 PM »
I really wanted to recreate the scene where
Spoiler (click to show/hide)

So when I got the HG fau, I immediately started working on it. This isn't my first time LEDifying the unicorn, I'm currently building my 2nd hg unicorn(red psychoframe) and now this.

Lighting up the unicorn isn't a simple task. but since I'm already 70+ percent on my current hg unicorn build. I already have an idea of what I'm going to do with the MS.

So instead I started working on the shields. The FAU shields' build design is a little different with the normal unicorn shield since the FAU shield can swivel one of its psychoframe parts. This new design made it much easier for me to place the LED.

This project was also my first take at hand painting parts. I was quite satisfied with the results and the brush strokes kind of added the effect of the part being metal. I used tamiya acrylic metallic gray to be exact.

I was kind of feeling burned out with the current hg unicorn I was building but the result with these shields really inspired me to finish this. Hopefully I get the time to finish these projects.

P.S. you can see more of my project WIP in my blog http://mechtalyer.blogspot.com/

14
Engineering Corps / Kamil's LED mods
« on: July 02, 2015, 07:48:52 PM »
I need help with my current WIP. I finally found the right size LED for my project but I'm having trouble distributing the light. I don't want to span the part with LEDs bec that would be impractical.

Do you guys have any idea how I could distribute the light more effectively?

I'm thinking 4 LEDs max there. :P

15
Engineering Corps / Recasting using melted runners
« on: June 17, 2015, 06:01:44 PM »
It has been tested and verified that melted runners using polyurethane reducer is an effective glue/putty when dealing with seam lines.

Has anyone tried using said mixture to recast parts?

Does it dry up and become as hard as before it was melted?

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