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Topics - dominict

Pages: [1]
Hey everyone,

I've started TotalGunpla, a blog that's about pushing readers to try, learn and implement new model making skills so they can take the models they're imagining out of their head and make it real.

To do that I'm focusing on creating top notch guides, WIPs and build reports showing my completed kits and detailing how I create them.

I do need help deciding what kind of content to focus on, so please vote on the poll above and leave me a comment on what YOU are interested in.

Check out TotalGunpla here:

Thanks for your time in taking the poll, leaving a comment and checking out TotalGunpla.

The Catapult / GBWC Malaysia 2017 - MG Psycho Zaku
« on: December 07, 2017, 01:48:54 AM »
--Do me a favour and tell me (1) what your biggest Gunpla frustration is, & (2) your comments and criticisms on my MG Psycho Zaku--

8 months...I started building the MG Psycho Zaku in March and submitted it for the GBWC 17 on the 27th November of the same year, thats 8 continuous months Ive been working on a kit, which is a new milestone, extra awesome because my Girlfriend bought it for my birthday! The annoying thing is Im still finding imperfections every time I look the Zaku over, but I think this may be an inevitable part of any craft as there will always be something to improve on. Yep, this is what Im gonna tell people when Im still gunplaing at the age of 40.

MS Review:
The MG Psycho Zaku is a great kit, every review Ive seen says its great and damn straight it is. But what makes it great? The MS uses a Zaku 2.5 frame (i.e. it reuses portions of the Zaku 2.0 frame but the majority is new) which moves well and looks good wherever it is exposed between the armour. The joints look incomplete, but are covered by the frame covers so thats irrelevant. I really like how the cockpit has the secondary hatch that moves to the side like in the anime, very cool. 
Weve seen red on antagonist suits so many times you would think they would be boring, but the Psycho Zaku uses familiar colours with just enough changes to look sexy. Its like the movies where the geeky girl suddenly looks like a super model after changing her top and losing her glasses.

The armour and all the thrusters that cover the Psycho also look great. Again, its familiar to anyone who has built a Zaku 2.0, but the changes really make it feel like a one of a kind, ace custom MS. There are some problems with the design however, the number one annoyance being the waist skirt. Get some glue or blue-tack into the connection between the orange and red pieces or they will fall off constantly. Secondly, once the outer layer of high mobility armour is added to the legs you wont be able to do poses with a wide stance, the double armour layers are just too heavy for the kit to do the splits in the air.
Backpack and fuel tanks Review:
The back pack is fun to build and is essentially static outside of the sub-arms, which are well designed, fun to assemble and play with. Remember to remove the mold lines on the sub-arms because they are far more visible than expected, unless you have the arms folded up.

Here we have the bulk of the kit, for reference the largest tank is about the same size as the PG Full Armour Unicorns tanks, which is crazy. I find its a little too long and imagine its a problem for the many people who wont have the space to display it. That being said, it is accurate to the show so what can you do? All the tanks come as two half circles than are pegged together, but the seam line is disguised into a raised panel which is much appreciated (seriously those seam lines would be such a pain to fix). On its own the main tank does look plain so its a good thing were given heaps of water slide decals to liven it up.
Bandai has done a good job designing the attachment method for these tanks. Despite the bulk they attach to each other securely, Ive held the entire model via the main fuel tank on multiple occasions and never felt as if the kit is at risk.

The weapons are the weakest part of the kit for me. The machine guns, heat hawks, and 90% of the bazookas are from the Zaku II 2.0 line so they have many mold lines that need cleaning up. The Beam Bazooka and Sturm Fausts are new so dont have as many mold lines, but there is a seam on the Fausts that needs fixing as its very visible. My complaint with this seam is I imagine it could have been avoided with a different method of assembly. So the weapons can be a pain to work with, but will look good with some effort.
Unfortunately though, they are painful to try and pose with. This wasnt much of a problem with Zaku 2.0s because there wasnt any backpack restricting the movement of the arms and shoulders, obviously thats not the case with the Psycho Zaku. For the solid bazookas youre likely to scratch the backpack and the bazooka magazine if you want the Zaku to aim at anything not directly below it; for the beam this is the only option as it is simply too heavy to point anywhere but straight down; the machine guns stock and butt plate are strange to pose and a constant scratch risk; the sturm fausts can be held perpendicular to the forearm well enough, but I couldnt find a pose where it looked natural. The only weapon which has no problems posing is the heat hawk, and, while it is cool, its very tame compared to all the other weapons.

So what did I actually do for this kit?

   Cut holes into the high mobility leg armour on the back of the legs and then filled them with mesh.

   Added pla plate to high mobility leg armour, groin, chest, and shoulder shield. Im most proud of that last one.
   Added thrusters to the groin.
   Cut holes into the skull armour.

   Increased the armour gap in the torso where the shoulder connects to show off more of that sweet sweet frame.

MS Priming:
The first stage is always priming and this time I assembled the kit, broke it down into its main components (arms, head, torso, waist and legs) and then primed with the armour on (excluding the extra high mobility armour on the legs). The advantage is I save time and primer by avoiding priming frame thats going to be covered up, and, I reduce the chance Ill miss those little bits of frame that peek through the armour.
MS Frame:
   Grey Primer
   Black paint
   Chrome Silver
   Black Enamel Panel Wash
MS Armour (Red):
   Grey Primer
   50% Red + 50% Brown Base coat
   100% Red (avoiding areas directly below panel lines and recessed areas)
   Brown Enamel panel wash
MS Armour (Dark Blue)
   Grey Primer
   50% Grey Blue + 50% Black Base coat
   Black Enamel Panel Wash
MS Armour (Red to yellow gradation)
   Grey Primer
   100% Red Base coat
   50% Red + 50% Yellow gradation, leaving red near the base/edge of the part
   100% yellow gradation at the tip/centre of the part
    Brown Enamel panel wash
MS Armour (White)
   Grey Primer
   White Base Coat
   Blue Enamel Panel Wash
Thrusters (Gold)
   Gold base coat
   Black Enamel Panel Wash
Manipulators & Secondary Arm Frame
   Black Primer
   Rose Gold Base Coat
   Black Enamel Panel Wash
Secondary Arm Armour
   Grey Primer
   Grey Base Coat
   Black Enamel Panel Wash
Backpack & Fuel Tanks (Brown)
   Grey Primer
   Metallic Black Base coat
   Hull Red (avoiding panel lines and recessed areas)
   Black Enamel Panel Wash
Weapon & Fuel tank support structures
   Grey Primer
   Gunmetal Base Coat
   Silver Acrylic details (hand painted)
   Black Enamel Panel Wash
   Grey Primer
   Gunmetal Base Coat
   Blue (head of Sturm Faust only)
   Black Enamel Panel Wash
Mono-eye and Machine gun & Bazooka Lenses
   Silver on inside
   Clear red (for mono-eye) & clear blue (for weapon lenses) on outside
Final Touches
   Water slide decals
   Flat coated everything, except the clear parts

Lessons learned:
1.   In future Im going to prime my kits with the armour on, as it saves so much time and heartache whenever I find out I forgot to
        paint a spot that peaks through the armour. Unless, of course, Im exposing the frame.
2.   Remove seam lines even the ones I think wont be seen <_<
3.   When pre-shading pick colours with greater contrast  (seriously see if you can spot the shading on the red armour <_<)

You will have to forgive me but I'm not willing to change the pose of this guy anymore as it's so easy to scratch. In fact, I will probably never change the pose, but then again why would I? IT LOOKS AWESOME!!!!!


Hello everyone. I have two completed kits that are early forays into weathering,

First off the Doven wolf, I love the look of this MS as it's so unlike anything else; it's also an MS that actually carries enough weaponry to justify sending it out on the battlefield.


Seriously this MS is armed with:
1 x beam rifle (that can combine with the ab cannons to form a mega launcher rivalled only by the ZZ's forehead cannon...what is a mega launcher?)
2 x ab beam cannons
2 x over the shoulder beam cannons
2 x incoms (the poor mans' bit/funnel/dragoon/etc)
2 x missile pods
2 x large missiles
2 x rocket punch arms...with beam guns!
2 x torso mounted grenade launchers
vulcans and beam sabers.

That's value. Why is this not the standard for arming mobile suits?

For this project I wanted to emulate the weathering of DC23's 1/100 Tieren (seen here:
It's a suit that has seen a lot of use on the ground and nowhere near enough maintenance.

Pla plating on crotch, sides of the chest and rear beam cannons.

I went cheapo here and tried some general purpose Anchor aerosol spray paint. Anchor isn't a hobby brand and I found the paint extremely fragile. In future I will not be using them.

Main armor
 - Mist grey (as a primer)
 - yellow

 - Mist grey

Hand painted Black details (shoulder, sleeves logo)
 - Mist grey (as a primer)
 - acrylic black paint (not hobby paint but worked fine)

Hand painted white details (sleeves logo)
 - Mist grey (as a primer)
 - acrylic white paint (not hobby paint but worked fine)

 - Sparkling black spray paint
 - Acrylic silver dry brush

Weathering Step 1
Anyway my doven wolf was the test bed for weathering with enamel thinners as per these videos by ThoseGundamGuys:

NOTE that the above are part of a series continued here:

and here:

So I wanted to try that enamel weathering technique and it works..with two caveats: 1. don't let the enamel thinner get under/between parts because it will eat the plastic; & 2. make sure the thinner doesn't pool.

Weathering step 2
I used a sponge to apply burnt siena acrylic paint to simulate rust, and, silver acrylic to simulate fresh scratches.

Moving forward:
 - Not gonna be using non-hobby spray paints again as they don't stick to plastic well. <_<
 - Always gonna thoroughly paint any kit that I'm going to be applying enamel thinner to to avoid parts breaking.
 - I like the weathering effects but I will be more conservative in future.


The Catapult / HG00 Brave Standard Type - Sexy Royal Purple
« on: September 15, 2017, 02:02:02 AM »
Hey everyone,

I built the blue commander type brave about 8 years ago and it was an instant hit in my mind. It's a unique design that's super sleek, menaning and put on a great show plowing through the ELS in the 00 movie. I loved the blue so much that for the first brave I didn't paint it, just panel lined and top coated.

But recently I came across the standard type and had to re-experience it.

 - covered up all the holes at the back of the knees, head fins, elbows.
 - extended the arm length by 2mm.
 - changed the shape of the feet, lengthening the front to a sharp point and the extending the read into two prongs.
 - scratch built a combat knife. The blade is a piece of pla plate cut to shape and bevelled. The handle is the spare handle from the rifle slightly modified.

Set up work:
 For this project I imagined the brave is flying close to the surface in it's MA mode, dodging shots from an overhead enemy. When an opportunity shows itself the brave seamlessly transforms, turns to face its opponent, dispatch them with a well placed rifle shot and transform back to MA mode to continue cruising. I wanted to capture that moment when the enemy pilot is looking down the barrel of the Brave's drake howling, lamenting how utterly screwed they are.

So for this project I fixed the Brave in a single position. To emulate overhead lighting I painted the whole model in black, then painted it from above between 45 degrees and directly above in white; so the model is pre-shaded.

Purple Armour Paint:
 - Grey primer
 - Black then white pre-shade (described above)
 - Purple paint
 - panel line with blue enamel paint

White Armour Paint:
 - Grey primer
 - Black then white pre-shade (described above)
 - Purple paint
 - White paint
 - panel line with blue enamel paint

Black armour paint:
 - Grey primer
-  Black then white pre-shade (described above)
 - Black base
 - Dark grey (95% black + 5% white) in the centre of panels
 - panel line with blue enamel paint

Frame paint:
 - Grey primer
 - Black Base
 - Gun metal
 - Silver dry brush
 - Black enamel wash

Now pictures:

Hey everyone, I think it's been a 5 years since I last posted. It's good to be back.

I put together this HG GM Custom for the BAKUC 2016 in Malaysia. I'd been looking for a GM type MS that I liked for quite some time and the Custom ticked all the important boxes. I especially like the head, it's not flashy but it still looks professional, like the gunpla version of a good suit.

 - drilled a hole in the top of the backpack to house the second beam saber.
 - added the arm gauntlet (from the HGBF EZ-8 SR kit) to the GM's right forearm.
 - drilled a hole in the butt to fit a clear rod that connects it to the base
 - added plaplate to the front of the ankle guard and bottom of the foot (think the red parts on the bottom of the full armor thunderbolt gundam's foot)
 - scribed a line across the chest

Brown Armour Paint:
 - Grey primer
 - Preshaded with brown, which was a bit of a waste as it's not noticable anymore <_<
 - Base colour is a 50/50 mixture of tan and brown
 - Applied random pieces of tape for the camo
 - 2nd base colour is pure tan
 - Minor detail parts painted with grey enamel paint.
 - panel line with brown gundam marker

Blue armour paint:
 - Grey primer
 - Base colour is greyish blue (I'll have to check)
 - panel line with black gundam marker

Frame paint:
 - Grey primer
 - Base colour is dark grey
 - Black enamel wash

Other details:
 - Added clear colouring around the sensors to simulate them glowing. I think I went overboard covering too great an area and next time I will dilute the clear colour with some gloss to lighten it,
 - Painted the thrusters with a mix of clear red, yellow, orange green and blue (the technique is from a video from GundamInfo but looks like it's been removed), though I went overboard and will scale it back for next time.
 - painted the pipes on the back of the knees gold.   

The base
 - used a photo frame from Daiso because it's CHEAP!
 - the larger 'rock' bits are lumps of polystyrene held in place with epoxy putty. The clear plastic rod is pushed into the polystyrene and reinforced with epoxy putty.
 - the bed is a mixture of wood glue, sand, stones and a few polystyrene chunks poured/painted on with a brush.
 - The whole is painted with the grey primer and then tan.
 - Finally, I applied a brown wash to the whole thing.

It was a really fun build and a great learning experience, if you're looking for a simple HG to build and customise I recommend the GM Custom.

Now pictures:

General Discussion / The greatest battles that never happened!
« on: December 04, 2011, 11:00:51 PM »
Hey everyone. Uni has finished for another year and I'm gonna lay into some Gunpla!!! Or at least I would be if I weren't overseas  ;D Now I am really looking forward to my holiday, but at the same time I really want to actually contribute to this awesome forum; I can't remember my last post. So since I have no wips or completed models to show atm I am here to force some discussion  ;)

Now we have all seen some awesome fights in the various gundam series. Amuro and Char's final battle at the end of CCA; Kira taking 5 minutes to stop crying in order to take on Rau and the Providence; Lockon finally getting his revenge; etc.

There are, however, some fights which would have been awesome had they actually happened. I for one was really hoping to see Ali Al take on Graham Acker, Arche gundam vs Susanowo. Or even the Raider, Calamity, Forbidden brothers vs Rau in the Providence!

So, I'd love to hear what other matchups you guys would want to see, but I do have some rules:

1. The pilots must be from the same universe and have lived and have been able to fight at the same time (no strike freedom vs nu, RX-78-2 vs Victory, etc)
2. All pilots must be named
3. The combatants should be reasonably well matched, lets not have any one sided fights  ;)

Post away boys and girls!


Engineering Corps / Air Compressors
« on: November 17, 2010, 04:22:42 AM »
On a completely unrelated note: I got an air brush today and soon I need to get a compressor. Anyone got any opinions on compressors? What should I look for in one?

Hey guys, Im about to start a quick project. Looking to finish within 5 days.

One of my friends turned 22 and I decided his own custom painted gundam would be a cool pressie.
I 'indirectly' asked him what weapons and colours he would like and he went with lazers, rockets and a gold/black colour scheme maybe with some red or yellow thrown in. After some research I decided on the HG destroy mode unicorn (with the bazooka from the normal mode).

The colours are going to be very similar to the unicorn banshee.

I also want to add a claw mark design accross the whole kit, sort of like the pic below but running from the left shoulder across the chest to the right arm. Painted battle ship grey

I was planning on using the salt weathering method to achieve the claw. Anyone know enough about the salt method to offer any advice or an alternative?

Colour summary
Psycho frame: Gloss gold with clear orange over the top
Armour: Matte black
Internal joints: gunmetal
Panel line: Red
Claw mark: battleship grey

Anyway im picking the kits up tommorow afternoon. Can anyone offer any advice/tips/criticisms? Also what the best way to get a red panel line?

Thanks all

Armament Audit / WTB MG Feet
« on: September 10, 2010, 08:33:42 PM »
Yes it is true,

I need feet, specifically 1/100 MG feet. Im converting my MG strike freedom and I don't really like the ones that came in the box. So if you have some MG feet you dont want/need then PM me.

I havnt thought of prices, as long as its reasonable. Im also happy with resin conversion kit feet for the SF or others.

Joint Exercises / Gundam workshop at tokyo underground in WA
« on: September 07, 2010, 10:23:47 PM »
There is going to be a workshop at tokyo undergound in perth city. The number of people who come will determine if they hold another one so try and make it! Join the tokyo underground facebook page for more info.

Workshop details:
Date: 12th September 2010
Time: 1pm
Location: The Basement
816 Hay Street, Perth WA 6000

See you there!

As a note: I am not the organizer, i am just giving the event a little extra publicity.

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